Archive for November, 2007

Hiking With Your Dog

The Best Hikes with Dogs series of books is awesome dog hikers whether you are new at hiking or an old hand. I like these books, even though they don’t have a good guide for my area yet (although I know a few places anyway). There is a lot of good information about hiking with a dog in general.

I introduced the book to a couple of friends (one in Seattle, another in North Carolina) and both were surprised at the number or places they could take their dog. One of them had never even thought about taking their dog in the woods.And if you haven’t, you should! Hiking is a great experience, for people and dogs. The colors, the life, the paths—you always see something interesting. So will your dog. Michigan has some glorious colors in the autumn and I always make sure the kids, the dog and I take a trek in the leaves before winter.

Keep in mind, a hike, however, can be a little more than just a simple walk—there are some things you want to consider or prep first.

  • Know which hiking areas prohibit dogs on backcountry trails
  • Know the rules about dogs in other public recreation area—when dogs are allowed
  • Try for areas that are sheltered by trees (so dogs don’t get overheated no matter how warm it is)
  • Match the challenge of the hike to your dog’s abilities. Your Chihuahua may have a lot of heart, but it’s also got little legs that may tire on a long tramp.
  • Determine a good length to start with but one that is not too challenging. Two to four miles roundtrip is a good length for many dogs.
  • Bring a collapsible water bowl and water for your dog! Seriously! (A dog should never drink out of a stream or creek any more than you should; dogs can pick up parasites just as easily.)

Your dog would love a hike. Think about it. They get to see new things, smell new things, hear new things—a smorgasbord if you will. And it doesn’t matter what season you go hike, your dog will probably love the new experience. Get them out of the house or out of the neighborhood. Take a hike!

Make Yourself Get Out And Walk The Dog

You don’t want to go out and walk the dog. It’s too cold, it’s too warm, you had a long day, you are tired, you’d rather relax, and so on and on.

You really do want the dog to get some exercise and work off that energy, but you don’t really want to exercise. You do, but you don’t. At least not right now. Maybe later.

(So you let the dog out in the backyard to get “some exercise”. But unless you have a dog that runs and jumps on his own for 20 minutes—and if you do, please find him a talent agent—she may be getting some sun and fresh air, but she’s not exercise. )

Well, now is the time to get up, get out, and walk that dog. Right now! In fact, if you are feeling it, just turn off your monitor right now and go for a 20 minute walk!

But if you are having a really hard time getting into the habit of exercising your dog regularly, start small. Really, really small.

Just Move
If you set goals that are very easy to reach, you are inclined to reach them. If you read anything about setting goals, you will often find advice for making these goals small and when you hit your mark, build on that success.

So I tried this little experiment with a new dog owner who rescued a dog a local shelter. I outlined this plan for her to follow for one week.

Day 1 . Find a pair of comfortable walking shoes put them by the door.
Day 2. Find the leash and collar and put them by the door.
Day 3. Put on shoes and warm coat. Stand on the porch.
Day 4. Put on shoes and coat, leash dog. Walk to the corner.
Day 5. Walk for 5 minutes. Give yourself 15 to get ready, walk and come back. Keep it short for now. It’s important to just get out.
Day 6. Walk for 5 minutes.
Day 7. Walk for 5 minutes, longer if you’re feeling it.

Didn’t make your goal today? Don’t beat yourself up, try again tomorrow.

It may sound silly, but if you are really having a hard time, small steps can give you the push you need to send you. And it was so simple she completed it Days 1 through 5, and Day 7. Day 6 she said she was just too tired.

This super simple plan accomplished a couple of things. One, you make it easier to go out when you have your stuff in one set place. She now keeps her walking shoes and leash by the door. Two, she got started. That is success in itself. Once you start you see what works and adjust. My walker here would walk after work, a time she was always tired. I told her to keep with it for a while and she would probably find she was working off her after-work stress. Or, since she was an earlier riser (always an amazing personality trait to me), get up 15 minutes earlier and walk the dog.

Now this super simple plan is for those who are not walking the dog at all! The idea is to work up to longer times that are healthy for the dog. But right now we’re keeping it simple.

What about the next week? Not as great. I’ll write about that in new post about Make Your Exercise Plan Hard to Quit.

I Don’t Want to Get Out

Yesterday, it was dreary and drizzly in eastern Michigan. The kids and I had long day but I still had more as I was a reluctant volunteer at a fundraiser that evening. So, I did not want to walk the dog! I didn’t have time—I still had to get ready, and I was peeved that I had to go out when I was tired. No, dog, take a nap!

Arrgh! DaBronx looks at me with those sad brown eyes.Fine, fine let’s do something.


The backyard is far as I’m going today. I thought about tossing his toy out for him to catch, but I admit, I was annoyed, so I pretend to throw it. He goes for it, hunts around in the grass, realizes there’s no toy there, and comes back to me. Ha, I think, and pretend to throw it again. Again he goes, again he discovers, again he returns and gives me a patient stare. Yea, well, if I’m annoyed, you are going to be too. (I’m not proud about it.)

We go through this exercise quite a few times. Actually, I was really surprised he indulged me as long as he did. But that last time, old Bronxy boy came charging back, not slowing down, and ran into my thigh with his head.

His little annoyed reaction was actually funny. Annoying but funny. He trotted away from me out of my reach but kept looking back to see what I was going to do. I turn on heel, indignant, and head for the house. Apparently Bronx was sorry, so he runs up to me circling me to let me know “don’t go”. I throw the toy to the back of the yard and as he heads for it, I continue for the door. Well, I should know my dog is smarter that. He stops dead, turns and tears for the door. Fine. I head back out to get the toy. Oh, no, girlfriend, you can’t have that—Bronx runs to beat me to the toy. Have it your way dog. I head back to the house. And this back-and-forth goes on for bit, too.

Eventually, I head to the house for good with my boy, give him a good rub and treats. In all, we spent about 15 minutes outside.

The point is—and I do have one—getting the dog some physical activity does not have to take major preparation. Sometimes, it’s just goofing off and playing around. In fact, to your dog, it’s always play.

(And I was much less annoyed as I left the house.)

Is your Dog Overweight?

Americans are noticing the problem of obesity in almost every part of society. Weight issues are also a problem for our pets. Studies suggest that approximately 25 – 40 percent of dogs the in the US are overweight. Obesity is just as problematic for dogs as it is for humans, and for this reason, pet owners should find out if their dog is overweight.

Excess weight places a dog at risk for a multitude of health problems including cardiovascular disease, diabetes mellitus, depression, respiratory problems and joint /skeletal disorders. Knowing how to recognize the signs of obesity and take corrective action is important. But more important is knowing how to keep your dog in good condition to start, thus avoiding the onset of obesity in the first place.

Defining The Problem: Overweight Dogs

There is a nine point system that most veterinarians adhere to when evaluating the size of a pet, 1 being extremely thin and 9 being tremendously obese. The ideal is a score of five.

In order to determine this measurement, several factors come into play. One, the contour of a dog’s ribs should be easy to feel. Ribs that are visible to the eye specify that the animal is too thin, and ribs that cannot be felt through the fat indicate the animal is over-weight. A rough scale you can use follows:

1. Emaciated: Dogs with ribs, hips, and other bones protrude and are visible from a distance. Emaciated dogs show a loss of muscle as well as an absence of body fat.
2. Very thin: A step up from emaciated; bones are visible but not as prominent and muscle loss is slight.

3. Thin: Ribs and top of spine may be visible and the pelvic bones prominent. (Some breeds are naturally thin, so don’t be fooled at the bony appearance of Salukis, Afghan Hounds and other sighthounds.) Waist and tuck-up are evident.

4. Underweight: Some fat on the ribs; visible waist and abdominal tuck-up.

5. Ideal: Ribs are easily felt and have a thin layer of fat. Waist and tuck-up are obvious but not exaggerated.

6. Overweight: Ribs have noticeable fat; waist and tuck-up are discernible but not prominent.

7. Heavy: Ribs are covered with a heavy layer of fat and noticeable fat deposits appear on the spine and
at the base of the tail. Waist is absent or barely discernible.

8. Obese: A heavy fat layer completely obscures ribs and heavy fat deposits appear over he spine and around the tail base. Waist and tuck-up disappear.

9. Morbid: Massive fat deposits in the chest area, along the spine, and around the tail base. No waist or tuck-up. Abdomen protrudes, and fat deposits accrue on legs and neck.

You can use this assessment on other parts of the body as well, like the tail. Where the tale joins to the body, there should be a slight layer of fat that keeps the bones from protruding but still allows them to be detected by touch. The same goes for several other places such as the shoulders, hips, and spine. All of these inspections are rated on the 9 point scale and recorded for later calculation. Remember that a score of five is ideal.

The second step of weight evaluation is to observe the size of the pet. By looking down from directly above the animal, the contour of a dog’s body is easily viewed. There should be a very clear waist area on dogs producing an hourglass figure for a rating of 5.

Another observation should be taken from the side angle. Dogs have what is known as an abdominal tuck, behind the rib cage where the abdomen is smaller than the rib cage. This observation can be quite confusing due to the fact that different breeds naturally have different size abdominal tucks. Greyhounds are an example of a breed that has an unusually large rib cage and an extremely small lower abdomen. It is important to be breed specific when coming up with score for this observation.

Once the measurements have been taken, an average of the numbers recorded will provide a ballpark calculation of the pet’s weight evaluation. If the number is over seven, then there is a good chance the animal is at a health risk for obesity.

If you believe your dog to be overweight, you should first visit a veterinarian to conclude whether the animal has any other health complications, and if it is safe, a weight reduction plan can begin. A local vet can also help decide on what sort of diet or exercise program will work best for a particular dog. By keeping a close eye on the size of your pet, you can prevent their weight from becoming out of control and may likely save their life.

Causes for Canine Obesity

Weight gain occurs when the amount of calories consumed exceeds the amount of calories expended on a daily basis. Weight gain may be slow and gradual or occur rapidly depending on caloric intake versus expenditure. The causes of obesity generally fall into three categories: overfeeding, genetic predisposition and hormonal disorders.

Overfeeding
The most common cause of obesity in dogs is overfeeding coupled with inactivity. The strong human-animal bond can lead to overfeeding and snacking. It’s hard to resist those cute sad eyes, and many of us give in to the temptation to sneak our dogs a taste of whatever we’re eating. Feeding leftovers or giving frequent snacks or treats often leads to an overweight dog. Finally, the fact that our dogs lead a more confined, sedentary lifestyle contributes to the obesity problem.

Genetic Predisposition
Certain breeds seem to be more susceptible to obesity than others including beagles, basset hounds, dachshunds and Labrador retrievers. While some breeds of dog may gain weight more easily, it does not mean an animal must become overweight. Maintaining a healthy body weight requires more careful attention to the amount of food and exercise your dog receives.

Hormonal Disorders
Diseases which impact hormone balances in dogs may contribute to the development of obesity. These include thyroid or pituitary gland dysfunction.
Castration and spaying also alter the hormonal balance of dogs, sometimes causing reduced activity and changes in metabolism. These factors can contribute to obesity and increase the need for carefully controlling food intake and increasing exercise in neutered dogs.

Dog Weight Control Guidelines
As they saying goes, “An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure”! Preventing excess weight gain is the best approach to weight control in dogs (and humans). It is much more difficult to take the weight off once it has been gained. If you think your dog is at risk of becoming overweight or if he is already carrying a few extra pounds review the following guidelines for helpful tips:

  1. Avoid feeding table scraps and treats. These are often high in fat and calories which contributes weight gain.
  2. If you use treats to train your dog, consider using low calorie dog treats.
  3. Reduce the size of your dog’s meals, especially if you train with treats. In fact, it is best to measure the amount of food your give your dog at each serving for consistency.
  4. Increase the amount of exercise your dog receives. This can simply mean an extra walk or 10 minutes additional playtime. It will do you both good!
  5. Consult your vet before beginning any weight reduction program.
  6. Keep in mind that most dogs will need to be kept on a weight reducing program for 8 – 10 months to achieve reach goal weight.

To keep your dog at his ideal body weight or to help your pooch shed a few extra pounds be sure to feed a high quality natural dog food diet, use portion control, limit the amount of treats and snacking and provide lots of exercise. These steps will help your dog live a longer, leaner and more enjoyable life.

The Right Exercise for Your Type of Dog

How much exercise should your dog get? Well, just as with people, there is not necessarily one that that will fit all of us. A good fitness routine for your dog depends on a few things: your pup’s physical condition, your likes, and, most certainly, your dog likes.

First, you are able to determine some of his or her preferences, in part, by the breed. Read the rest of this entry

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